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Switching to Allen Edmonds latest last designations

For some time now, Allen Edmonds uses slightly different designations for its last. I've now switched Sizeadvisors to use the latest ones.

A little bit of history

A few years ago, Allen Edmonds has encouraged and used short designations instead of its full last names. The general rule was to use the last number of the full name, so its popular 65 last was simply known as "#5", for instance.

While this made it easier for customers to remember which lasts their shows are build on, it has the disadvantage of being able to use only 10 designations – from #0 to #9. This may be why Allen Edmonds only used it for its welted lasts (I'll discuss cemented and handsewn lasts shortly).

Another disadvantage is that sometimes lasts are deprecated, and new ones are being used. This creates the problem that one short name can stand for more than one last. For instance, the designation '6' could stand for 206, or 606. This can be confusing for customers.

I guess, one of these problems is why Allen Edmonds wanted to move away from shortening last names. But it had to educate its customers about the full names. For this, they started using both in conjunction. So, the #5 last became "5-65" - first the short name, then the full name. This is the system Sizeadvisors also used until recently.

But for some years now, Allen Edmonds dropped the old shorter names, probably because its management felt that its customers got used to the full names. So, the 5-65 last became the 65 last, for instance.

Sizeadvisors is now also using the latest designations. Ratings for shoes using the old names have been renamed.

Here's a short overview.

Welted Lasts

The new designations should be easy to understand, but here's a table

NewOldShort
655-655
733-733
799-799
977-977
1088-1088
2222-2222
2344-2344
5111-5111

Additionally, Sizeadvisors also uses the new system for older lasts which are not available anymore, such as the 0-000 last which is now called just 000. New lasts such as the 333 which Sizeadvisors previously listed as 3-333 are renamed as well.

If you only know the short last names for your shoes, be aware that these may stand for two different lasts. For instance, the deprecated 692 last used to be the '2' last. Also, the short name '8' can stand for the older 678 last, or the newer 108 last.

Also note that the 511 last and the (newer) 511G last are not the same. The later has extra room allowing for an orthotic, so these two are treated as two different lasts.

Handsewn Lasts

There hasn't been any changes concerning the handsewn lasts. However, members at Sizeadvisors have submitted ratings using different ways to describe the same last such as "114", "HS 114", or "Handsewn 114".

From the software's point of view, these are all different lasts, leading to less followers and less recommendations than possible.

To improve results, Sizeadvisors now uses only one notation, namely the last number preceded by "HS" with a blank. So, all current lasts used for handsewn styles are called "HS 114", "HS 145", "HS 555", "HS 800", and "HS 2592" without the quotes.

Cemented Lasts

It seem Allen Edmonds has given up on distinguishing between so-called welted and cemented lasts. In my opinion, this is good thing. Sizeadvisors also doesn't distinguish between them, so the 444 last is called just that.

Odds and ends

You'll may find recommendations for some odd lasts by Allen Edmonds. These are mostly lasts used for only one or two seasons. Their designations remain unchanged.



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